Hi Brenda and group,  The valves in your photos look like they might
be later generation(?) H. C. Bay valves, after they stopped using the
solid Bakelite buttons and went to a more Gulbransen-style wooden and
leather valve with a X-shaped stem and round button.

My grandma Baba's player piano, a very late Settergren made supposedly
around 1937 in Bluffton, Indiana (if the date in the Piano Atlas is
correct for the serial number in the 121,000s), has what I think are
these same valves.  I haven't opened the stack in 15 years so might
be mis-remembering but can check it again.

I inherited this piano from my grandmother around 2002 and have it
in storage as a future project.  Our piano has the "Lehmann" name
(a music store in St. Louis, Missouri) stenciled on the fallboard,
and no name on the piano plate.  I can tell the piano is an H. C. Bay /
Settergren from the characteristic case style, piano plate style and
player action it has.

I understand Edward Lisauskas in Illinois also has a semi-art-case
Vollmer upright player or expression piano with this same kind of
stack (I think).  It's the only other H. C. Bay upright I've heard
of with this same six-point teeter-totter wind motor, rather than
the earlier 5-point wind motor found on most extant H. C. Bay pianos.
Perhaps Edward will supply some details about this rare  piano, which
I believe is for sale.

The late Craig Roothoff of Escondido, California had a Vollmer /
H. C. Bay Recordo grand piano with these kind of valves, I think, but I
believe it went to the dump after he passed away, at least that's what
I heard from Diane DeTar who managed to help save or rehome at least
one or two of the other reproducing pianos he had for sale.  I would
have saved it but did not hear about his passing or anything else until
long after the fact.  (I wish these things were advertised more widely!)
I would imagine there are probably more H. C. Bay players around with
these kind of valves.

I would also like to get some more restoration advice beyond what
I already know -- having to saw the pouch boards apart from the valve
boards using a table saw, after first drilling and countersinking screw
holes to hole the pouch and valve boards together.  Are there any other
specific tips for H. C. Bay?  The lower valve seat in Brenda's photos
looks like it's Bakelite.  If any of these are cracked or broken, could
John Tuttle or another supplier use a 3-D printer to make new ones?

Regards,
Andrew Barrett
Orange County, California