[ Paul Camps wrote in 190713 MMDigest, Player Piano Tracking Problem:

> The best option is to use a high quality clock oil of medium viscosity. 

Greetings from the National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors
(NAWCC) clock repair forum, where it is well known that the mere
mention of clock oil will trigger two weeks of debate.

A few facts: While WD-40 has changed its formulation now and again
(e.g., it went from flammable to non-flammable to flammable again) it is
not harmful to mechanisms.  Mostly it's a light oil that's thinned out
by some sort of solvent.  Other compounds of its ilk may contain more
aggressive penetrants, e.g., CRC uses peppermint oil.  WD-40 is not
necessarily a great lubricant, but often it works.

The latest fashion in clock oil is Mobil 1 0W-20 full-synthetic motor
oil.  It's a bit heavier than my old favorite, which was Nye 140, and
it seems to be compatible with other oils or greases and stays put
reasonably well.  And it's cheap, wherever motor oil is sold.  (There
are several variants, such as extended oil change, high performance,
etc., but those are irrelevant.)  The stuff should last forever.

My other Repairs-In-Spray-Cans include Walmart's Super Tech carburetor
cleaner (the flammable not-for-California stuff) and PB Blaster General
Purpose Synthetic Lubricant.  The former will degrease anything and
remove most varnishes and lacquers so you can polish the brass beneath,
and the latter is a slightly heavier lube product that will penetrate
into impossibly jammed and/or corroded mechanisms.

Mark Kinsler

 [ Mark wrote in 070827 MMDigest --

> In the USA, WD-40 has characteristics in common with Coca-Cola
> and Microsoft Windows:
>
> (1) They are heavily advertised,
> (2) they contain ingredients which are kept famously secret
>     by their respective manufacturers, and
> (3) they've been extremely successful and profitable.