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MMD > Archives > May 2016 > 2016.05.07 > 01Prev  Next


Rebuilding Wurlitzer Exhauster Bellows
By Paul Horgan

Hello MMD readers:  I have two Wurlitzer IX's, one original unrestored
early model, and one late "Victory" model that had been worked on at
one point.  I also have a spare bellows.  All three need to be rebuilt.

The unrestored IX has flap valves with wooden buttons glued to the flap
above each hole in the bellows board, and coiled springs attached to
one end of the flap to draw it closed when the suction stroke is about
to begin.

My late IX has flap valves with a thin metal backing glued on, and are
only loosely secured to the bellows board with wood screw and felt
washers, lacking a positive means to draw the valve closed before the
suction part of the stroke begins.  These flap valves has rubber-stamped
ink lettering reading "Geo. T Bemis Worcester Mass", who I assume was
the rebuilder who installed these flap valves.

My first question is what was Wurlitzer's practice of installing flap
valves when this late model was built (serial 54526)?  Were they still
using the wood buttons and tension springs like my early IX (serial
22676)?

I am asking because the metal backing of the flap valves had become
bent.  The screw and felt washer method of securing these seems much
too loose to function very well.  My bellows did not create any suction
at all.  Except for the possibility of the wood buttons coming unglued,
the early design seems to make more sense to me.  The third spare
bellows I have simply has the flap valves tacked in the corners.
How long did Wurlitzer use the wood buttons and tension springs in the
flap valves, and which practice should I use in rebuilding them?

My second question: Art Reblitz states in his book, "Player Piano
Servicing and Rebuilding," that even if the original bellows used
bellows cloth, professional restorers now use leather for motor driven
reproducing piano, coin piano (such as mine), and orchestrion pumps.

I have been looking at what Columbia Organ Leathers offers and I think
I should use their CCL Black Gusset Cowhide, chrome tanned, .045" to
.050" thick.  The bellows boards measure 5" by 15".  If applicable,
what should I use for gussets or stiffeners, what dimensions, and
where?  Does anybody have close up photos they could send me?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, including anything I may have
missed.  I plan to rebuild the bellows for both IX's plus my spare.

Regards, Paul Horgan
Haddam, Connecticut

 [ Unrestored early IX flap valves with wood buttons and tension springs
 [ http://www.mmdigest.com/Attachments/16/05/07/160507_135726_Wurlitzer%20IX%2022676%204-30-2012%20018.JPG 

 [ late model IX bellows with metal backed flap valves
 [ http://www.mmdigest.com/Attachments/16/05/07/160507_135726_Wurlitzer%20disassembly%201%20007.JPG 

 [ close-up of late model IX metal backed flap valves
 [ http://www.mmdigest.com/Attachments/16/05/07/160507_135726_Dave's%20new%20house,%20Wurlitzer%20valves%20038.JPG 

 [ flap valves fastened with tacks
 [ http://www.mmdigest.com/Attachments/16/05/07/160507_135726_Wurlitzer%20IX%20exhauster%20bellows%20003.JPG 


(Message sent Sat 7 May 2016, 20:57:26 GMT, from time zone GMT-0700.)

Key Words in Subject:  Bellows, Exhauster, Rebuilding, Wurlitzer

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