[ Ref David Dewey in 141004 MMDigest --
It sounds like David's friend's Ampico is in need of a good,
old-fashioned regulation. As I'm sure other readers will chime in
with good suggestions regarding the regulation and adjustment of
the roll tracking and tempo adjustments as they pertain to this Ampico,
I did want to mention another point that is often overlooked when the
subject of torn or damaged rolls comes up which is roll flanges. If
the roll's flanges are not in perfect condition, tearing on rewind is
almost guaranteed.
Firstly, be sure that the roll's flanges are true (straight up and
down, parallel to each other). Shellac/plastic rolls, when poorly
stored (in Grandma's attic or put next to the radiator) can be affected
by heat and other factors which can cause the flanges to melt or sag
ever so slightly, causing the flange to bend in at the bottom of the
box, under the roll's weight. This indentation then catches the paper
on rewind and tears it.
These "wavy" flanges are easily visible as the roll plays (while
playing, the flange makes a wavy, almost serpentine, pattern) and are
especially visible at high speed during rewind. If your flanges are
not true, replace them immediately before rewinding.
Metal flanges (Duo-Art) can be untrue as well. As moisture levels and
other factors effect the paper core, the metal flanges which are often
bolted to it, bend in slightly. This is often noticeable when the roll
plays as one will hear the paper "scrape" the side of the flange. It
is possible to bend the flanges true again to right them, but better
often to replace the entire flange/spool assembly. Metal flanges often
come to a point at the outer diameter and on rewind, if bent, act just
like a mini table saw to the paper. Metal flanges can also rust and
this often seemingly insignificant rust layer can snag the paper and
tear it. Best to replace rusty flanges and be aware of your storage
humidity levels.
Original Ampico and Welte and most other 88-note brand flanges were
almost all completely rounded on the edge (outer diameter of the
flange). This half-moon outer edge reduces the risk of the "table saw"
idea mentioned before. Most, if not all, of the new flange assemblies
available today have these rounded edges. Some old QRS and other
non-metal roll assemblies had only the rounded outside edge but the
straight inside edge. I find it safest to replace these with the
modern, completely rounded edge flanges.
Flanges can also be chipped or "flaked" often from being mishandled
(dropped against a hard surface or as it rolls of the piano) or from
manufacturing flaws. The chipped flange usually occurs horizontally
across the flange causing a flat spot.
What I call "flaking" occurs when the shellac, from which many old
flanges were made, fails in some way and a piece, almost like flaking
house paint, comes off the flange vertically causing an indentation on
the inside or outside of the flange. Both of these faults can create
an interior of the flange which is not perfectly smooth and allow a
place for the paper to be snagged as it rewinds (or even when it
plays!)
If a piece breaks off of a flange, don't glue it back! Often times,
the glue from reattaching the broken piece can create a small
protruding line of dried glue which will snag the paper. Even worse,
the glue can get on the paper, inadvertently affixing the paper to the
flange, and when played, the roll can stick to the flange and the paper
will pull itself apart.
Lastly, while not directly related to roll tearing, an added point
regarding flanges and preservation: when putting rolls back in the box,
make sure the box is down on a flat surface not in your hand. Putting
a roll back into its box while holding it in your hand will almost
certainly blow out the bottom of the box where the flanges hit it. If
the roll is put back into its box on a hard, flat surface, the bottom
of the box will be supported absorbing the impact of the flanges (which
support the weight of roll in the box) and preserving the integrity of
the box top and bottom.
Adam Aceto
Burbank, California
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