Hi All,  In regard to the inquiry of David Dewey about right hand roll
edge damage on reroll [141004 MMDigest], my guess is that the roll
tracking system had to push the roll to the left just before reroll
and the tracking system must have friction in it and could not center
itself before reroll.

The source of the friction can be in any of many places: (1) old or too
thick a choice of replacement pneumatic cloth might inhibit the motion;
(2) some "A" Ampico tracking systems have rods that slide right to left
that go through felt bushed bearings and these, due to felt or wood
dimensional changes, can bind the motion; (3) actually any and all areas
or points that could potentially restrain motion should be examined.

In regard to the drawer panels: (1) some can be removed by pushing
them rearward and lifting them out; (2) others are held in by screws
going horizontally through the ends of the drawer into blocks attached
to the under side of the drawer panels, as well as from the opposite
direction through the right and left sides of the spool box, also into
blocks attached to the under side of the panels; (3) whereas "B" Ampico
pianos generally have very obvious screws with gold plated heads
holding them down.

I have found that if all is well with the tracking system it should
work well at least with new rolls old rolls are in like new condition.
In the case of old rolls quite often they have been left for years in a
not securely rolled state which allows the rolls to acquire serpentine
shape along their length.  This serpentine shape causes these old rolls
to wander right to left as they rewind.

Unfortunately, this is the case for most old rolls, and before playing
an old roll I always remove the left spool end, lay it on the table,
tear a 2" to 2-1/4" length piece of "Scotch Matte Finish Magic Tape",
only made by 3M, from a roll of same, lay the tape along a scissors
blade so that I can cut a piece of tape 1/8" or so inch wide, 2" or so
inch long piece of tape.

This tape I attach around the perimeter of the spool shank very near
the end near the spool flange.  When the shank is gently pushed back
into the cardboard tube of the roll it will generally stop about 1/8"
or so inches short of the flange touching the spooled paper.  Only then
do I play the roll and watch it on reroll.

If on completion of reroll there is space between the paper and the
flange, I hold the roll by the right hand flange and push the left hand
flange while turning it until the flange just touches the paper.  Then
I tamp the right flange of the roll either against my hand or, in
stubborn cases, against a block of wood to settle the paper down on the
right spool flange.

I then gently wind the right flange with the right hand while holding
the paper perimeter with my left hand.  If the paper on reroll hits
both the right and the left flanges during reroll I remove the left
flange and place another piece of tape out about 3/8" from the flange
and repeat the previous steps.

I have found that if the paper wanders as much as 3/8" one needs to
make spacer shims cut from craft paper about 0.01 inches thick shaped
like the lower case "h" such that the width of the opening at the bottom
of the "h" just fits around the spool shank and the total width of each
foot of the "h" letter is the dimension of the largest flange diameter
minus the shank divided by two.  What remains of the craft paper after
cutting the "h" out will look like a stencil to place on a box and
spray with paint to leave a painted "h" with a base about 2-3/4" wide.

I make about 20 or more of these, two or more each of one thickness,
the others glued in stacks of 2, 3, 4 and 6.  When a roll wanders as
much as 3/8" it will be stubborn about tamping down on the right flange
but it will move enough to insert one thickness shim between the paper
and the left flange, then tamp it more and try to insert a 2-thickness
shim.  If it will not go in chose a single thickness shim and continue
this process until the paper is aligned, i.e., you cannot get an
additional shim in.  Then tighten the paper as previously stated.

One must avoid the paper squeaking as this is too tight and will
potentially cause bridge separation in extended notes.  After this
procedure place a string, ribbon, or rubber band around the paper to
keep it in place.  Remove the shims and place the roll back in its box.

Many people may take exception to this method but it has worked for me
over the last 48 or more years of piano roll ownership!  I am now 76
and still going strong.

Sincerely,
Allen Ford