[ Randy Hammond wrote in 130922 MMDigest:

> Unfortunately, the original ivory keys have been replaced with
> a molded plastic kind of cap which required shaving down the
> original keys.  They absolutely have to go. ... I do not need the
> whole action, just the keys.

Randy, I think you are going to want to obtain those replacement
keys still mounted on their respective keyframe, and use that entire
assembly.  Even with the same scale, there is enough variation from one
set of keys to another that you will face a nightmare getting the other
keys to work on your existing setup.  You can try it, but I'd have that
[original] keyframe handy.  Even then, getting the new frame mated to
the keybed and the action will be a challenge.  It's a normal part of
recovering keys that the top of the key gets milled down slightly to
clean off the old glue and provide an absolutely flat surface.

The problem, in my opinion, is when the bare sides get attacked.  Years
ago most key recovering services used a sort of table saw setup to trim
the plastic, and if the operator wasn't particular about making fine
adjustments then greater or lesser quantities of wood and key leads got
trimmed as well, and not always at right angles.  Unfortunately, several
firms (now defunct) that did quantity work for supply houses were among
the offenders, so there are thousands of gap toothed, crooked keyboards
out there.

This is assuming that the key caps you mentioned aren't those supplied
by Pratt Read in the 1960s for new pianos -- those had plastic on the
sides as well, and were glued onto a thin key stick.  I've never seen
a set of old keys recovered with them, though.

I think you can still get "pre-ban" ivory installed on restored or new
key sets from Blackstone Valley Piano or Roseland Piano.

Richard Friedman
Upstate New York