Repairing rolls takes a delicate touch and a bit practice.  I know that
a number of MMDers have created "repair tables" with spools on either
end and a work surface (sometimes flip-able) in the middle.  For the
occasional repair however, it is possible and effective to make repairs
without this.

Repairs should be done _away_ from the piano; not only because the
tracker bar isn't flat, but because bits of tape, etc., can make a mess
of the tracker bar and spool box, etc.

Unroll the roll on a table a bit at a time.  There is no need to unroll
the entire 30+ feet of roll -- you'll only risk tearing it in another
place as you repair it.  Let the leader wind back on itself; I use two
paperweights to hold down the section I'm working on to prevent the
spool end and the leader end from rolling back into the way.

Here are the tools I find indispensable:

- Document Repair Tape; Lineco 901-0198 (1 inch)

- Transparent Mending Tissue: Lineco L533-0017 (1/2 inch).  This "tape"
is acid free, remains completely flexible its entire life, and is
fairly easy to work with.  It is a far superior choice to any Scotch
tape or equivalent I have seen.  I buy it at a local art store.  It is
fairly expensive at about $10 a box, but is without a doubt the best
repair medium I have worked with.  The tape is so thin that once
burnished, it virtually disappears into the paper.  It is so thin, too,
that it can be applied to the underside of a roll as well as the surface,
without causing an air gap to inadvertently trip notes on rewind, etc.

In addition, I use:

- A small, plastic cutting board (as a work surface that the tape
will not adhere very well to and can be cut upon).

- A small paring knife and/or X-acto knife (to trim the tape into
smaller strips, if needed).

- A ruler (for trimming the tape into small pieces, or for truing an
edge where the tape has passed the edge).

- A 1/16-inch diameter hole punch.  Expression holes on the side of the
rolls are sometimes so damaged that it may be necessary to tape over
them on both sides.  In this case, the punch comes in handy to "put
back" the expression holes.  Also good for restoring poor repairs where
someone has taped over holes with magic tape.

There was a recent post about using "Post-It" notes to temporarily hold
work together.  I think that is a good idea too.

In general, take your time.  I always use my trusty paring knife to
"unfold" the crushed edges; I find that hands and fingernails are just
not small enough.  Most important is to make sure the roll is straight
(if torn all the way across) and flat.  Take the time to uncurl all of
those tiny bits; badly rewound rolls can sometimes rival the best
origami!

Tabs are easily replaced with a dab of white glue and an alligator clip
from my desk drawer.

Many rolls tear on rewind because of chipped or untrue flanges.  While
repairing a roll is a good time to double check that the flanges didn't
cause the tear in the first place.

I think sometimes collectors are often hasty to dismiss and toss that
extra recording of "The Rosary" or "Thais" which we've seen a dozen
times.  If we all junk our copies of these oldies merely to save the
box and spool for a "more important" roll, that's not really doing the
hobby long-term justice either.

Personally, I think repairing rolls is important for posterity however
only if done correctly.  Poorly repaired rolls, or rolls repaired in
haste with improper materials, while playable for a while, often become
junk in short order or lose some fidelity in the process.  If someone
would like, I would be willing to make a YouTube video as an example of
how I do a roll repair.  I am also willing to repair rolls for
individuals.  Please contact me directly with questions.

Adam Aceto
ajaceto@gmail.com.geentroep [delete ".geentroep" to reply]