Mechanical Music Digest  Archives
You Are Not Logged In Login/Get New Account
Please Log In. Accounts are free!
Logged In users are granted additional features including a more current version of the Archives and a simplified process for submitting articles.
Home Archives Calendar Gallery Store Links Info

End-of-Year Fundraising Drive In Progress. Please visit our home page to see this and other announcements: https://www.mmdigest.com     Thank you. --Jody

MMD > Archives > April 2009 > 2009.04.02 > 04Prev  Next


Seeburg Mandolin Feature
By Eric Shoemaker

Seeburg (or typical) mandolin rail/curtain and clips

Sounds like the clip described by Lamar Meadows in the 090330 MMD is
oriented the right way: with the rectangular side facing the strings
and the round button side facing the hammers.  But either way the metal
clip should be absolutely square (assuming the hammers to strings are)
and coming in contact with all three strings.  Also, the clip should
not be warped or higher or lower than its neighbors but evenly spaced,
true, and square between each note.  If this is so, one can adjust the
rail a bit up or down, slightly closer to, or farther away from, the
strings, so long as the clips remain free enough to not be ensnarled
with the hammers.  If they are getting hung up in the strings, they
aren't square are they?

But a surprisingly wide range of "slightly tinny" to "Metallica's
harpsichord" can be obtained through adjusting how far the pneumatic
plunges the rail down and how close to, or far from, the strings.

A) everything must be even, squared up hammer to string
B) each clip must move back and forth, but not twirl off sideways
C) the final adjustment must allow up and down movement without getting
hung up on strings or hammers

Also, the curtain has to be close enough to the strings to avoid
getting hung up on the hammers, when the piano is at half-blow/soft
pedal.  Keep in mind that whatever clip is striking the strings has to 
be hit by felt hammers.  See to it that whatever comes in contact with
hammer and string doesn't cause damage to the hammer or chip away at
the string.  I usually set the down stop so the clip hangs a little
higher than the strike point or core of the hammer.  This is important.
I've seen many hammers chewed useless by mandolin rails that weren't
squared up true and plunged too far below the strike point.  Sometimes
blamed on mice or moths, a mis-aligned rail can tear up good hammer
felt fast.

Nevertheless, with some careful adjusting and experimenting, a wide
window of tone quality is available, more than one might think.  It's
usually a good idea to run a little muffler felt between the bass
hammers and strings if they overpower the upper notes, when the rail is
dropped.  Finally, don't try to even up a sloppily made rail.  Start
over and make sure everything is in perfect alignment!

Hope this helps,
Eric Shoemaker


(Message sent Thu 2 Apr 2009, 08:46:03 GMT, from time zone GMT.)

Key Words in Subject:  Feature, Mandolin, Seeburg

Home    Archives    Calendar    Gallery    Store    Links    Info   


Enter text below to search the MMD Website with Google



CONTACT FORM: Click HERE to write to the editor, or to post a message about Mechanical Musical Instruments to the MMD

Unless otherwise noted, all opinions are those of the individual authors and may not represent those of the editors. Compilation copyright 1995-2024 by Jody Kravitz.

Please read our Republication Policy before copying information from or creating links to this web site.

Click HERE to contact the webmaster regarding problems with the website.

Please support publication of the MMD by donating online

Please Support Publication of the MMD with your Generous Donation

Pay via PayPal

No PayPal account required

                                     
Translate This Page