Responding to David Krall's request for suggestions [080809 MMDigest],
let me respond by saying the following are steps are those I suggest:

1. If the maple has a finish on it, it must be dulled.  Try 4-0 steel
wool or 400 wet-or-dry paper -- anything to eliminate the surface
tension of your stain including, perhaps, padding on a dull lacquer
sanding sealer.

2. In a rather inconspicuous area, try a pure liquid aniline dye of
mostly red with some black in it.  Orient your work flat and horizontal
as otherwise it will sag and drip.  Do you have the right color?  If
not, a bit of yellow dye will brown it.  More black will darken it.
A tiny drop of blue will gray it a bit.  Apply with a soft cotton rag
or a bristle brush in the direction of the grain only.  Thin it to
lessen the intensity a bit, if desired.  When you get the correct look,
proceed to step 3.

3. You need a vehicle to cause your dye to dry hard enough to allow
finishing.  In your final dye, add this vehicle which must be
compatible with the dye.  A bit of brushing lacquer or water borne
acrylic (Diamond Flecto Varathane) or varnish or shellac, or painter's
glaze, whatever will do the job.  Keep in mind compatibility with the
dye and the intended finish.  Anything to slow the drying time (as
approved for your vehicle) is a good idea as you want to leave the
dye "open" to be manipulated as needed with your cloth or brush.  The
larger the work, the slower the drying time.

Spraying the final finish can eliminate brush marks.  Indoors, without
an exhaust fan, I prefer Mohawk lacquers (satin) in spray cans.  You can
build up the finish with a clear gloss and use the satin for the final
two coats to minimize clouding.  Final coats can be wet sanded with 400
then 600 wet-or-dry paper and brought to a higher sheen with DuPont
automotive rubbing or polishing compound or with McGuires.

The final finish can also be shellac or varnish if matching the other
areas.  Of course this will require effort to achieve a brushed-on
finish sag free to your satisfaction.  Remember you can lacquer over
shellac but not over varnish.

So that's it in a nut shell.  There may be more modern methods and
short cuts that could apply, so I'll welcome comments.  If working on
a stripped finish, try filling the work with a quality paste wood
filler first before staining and follow directions on the can.

All the best,
Bill Maier, in Salt Lake City