Dave, achieving a red mahogany finish on maple is not that difficult.
I'm assuming you're somewhat familiar with finishing supplies, and if
not, remember to always try it on a test piece first.  You can use
an alcohol stain, mixed with water or alcohol to put on an background
color (wear plastic or latex gloves). Then, after it dries, you can
put on an oil-based stain or a stain made up of mineral spirits, Japan
colors and a touch of boiled linseed oil.

I am going to say this, but please, I have nothing against their
product line.  Avoid using Minwax stains -- they have a purpose, but
not here. They contain silicones and sealers which makes it difficult
to try and get darker results with more coats.

After your stain coat dries, you can spray it with a thin coat of
lacquer, pre-cat lacquer or conversion varnish.  After it dries, sand
it with 220 or 280 grit free-cut sand paper.  If you want to make it
darker you can then glaze it with the same stain you made, or even
a thinned down mix of black stain.  You can then spray it again with
your clear coat.

We try to use gloss topcoats for all our build-up work, and then use the
satin or flat clear coat for the final stage.  The flattening pastes,
used to bring down the sheen, often cloud the finish.  Also, try not to
add colors to your clear coats, they will muddy up your finish.

Most important, if you add boiled linseed oil to your stain to slow
down the drying process, always discard the rags as soon as possible,
soaked in water.  Otherwise, you'll next learn how to start a fire with
spontaneous combustion!

Howard Jensen
Long Island, New York, USA