This is a catch-up on the current state of the steamboat Delta Queen
and its treasures, which have been mentioned in this list before.
I just returned from a delightful five-day cruise on the vessel.
The DQ is one of only six (I am told) steam-powered paddlewheel boats
currently plying American rivers.  It was launched in 1927 and uses
its (mostly) original engine and boilers, which power not only the
paddle wheel but also the capstan and various hoists.

The craft is in astonishingly good condition and presents a wedding
cake of quarter-sawn oak, mahogany, teak, brass and Tiffany glass.
It's like walking around inside an orchestrion.  Our quarters were
quite comfortable and the service and food were terrific.

The main point of the message here is of course the experience of the
brass and iron piano, the calliope.  Professor Travis Vasconcelos, who
is a trove of river lore and is responsible for the care and feeding
of the instrument, proved a patient and genial host and willingly spent
much time answering naive questions and demonstrating the delights of
the instrument.  The calliope is played regularly at the departure
from each port.

For those who have not experienced a steam calliope, it is initially
a disconcerting experience.  The "warm-up" consists of a series of
chromatic scales and chords that suggest the mating cries of a pack of
elephants.  This is to clear the condensed water from the system and is
a true multi-media event, being accompanied by a sizable rain shower.
Once the notes are (mostly) sounding, Professor Travis launches into
his concert.  The first couple of minutes are... interesting, as the
whistles warm up and lurch towards a semblance of tuning.  My impression
is that one can never really tire of playing the calliope since you
never know quite what you are going to get.

I was also privileged to sit in on a whistle tuning session, when
the manifold pressure was adjusted (to about 35 psi) and several
egregiously misbehaving notes were attacked with a crescent wrench
and Channellock pliers.  This was a highly iterative and subjective
process, and agreement on proper tune seemed to hinge on whether
certain notes caused people to lift from their chairs.  ;)

In any case, Professor Travis always presented exhilarating and
tasteful concerts, including the usual river music (Waiting for the
Robert E. Lee, etc) as well as a fine arrangement of Phantom of the
Opera themes.  The evening concert was accompanied by colored lights,
which lent an air of festivity when wreathed by the steam.

The serious side of this article has to do with politics.  The Delta
Queen is currently running on an exemption having to do with the fact
that the superstructure is wooden.  This is strictly in violation of
marine law, which requires all metal housing in a boat that carries
overnight passengers.  It is worth noting that said law does not
consider riverboats, which have the advantage of being able to land
nearly anywhere within a couple of minutes of any problem developing.
The current exemption expires in September 2008 and must be renewed
by an act of Congress (literally).

(1) If you are interested in travelling on the Delta Queen, you'd
best do it soon.  The cruises for next season have just been posted.

(2) Write to your congressman.  If you need more information on what
to say, let me know -- Travis gave me an information pack.

A. B. Bonds

 [ Read Travis Vasconselos' short history for MMDigest at
 [   http://mmd.foxtail.com/Calliope/DQ.html
 [ The exemption problem is outlined at
 [   http://dailycruisenews.com/artman/publish/printer_3452.shtml
 [ Steamboat Delta Queen is owned and operated by Majestic America
 [ Line, Seattle, Washington,  http://www.majesticamericaline.com/
 [ -- Robbie