Hi All,  I thought I made it pretty clear that the device I'm
rebuilding is an air motor (or wind motor).

I have used a clothes iron to get stack pneumatics off when they were
glued on with hot melt glue, but in such case I always make new bottom
boards.  And, fortunately, since the deck boards are typically harder
wood than the deck boards, I can set up a jig and cut off the splinters
(remains of the pneumatics) plus a hair or two, and end up with a nice
clean, fresh surface for hide gluing the new boards to the 'refreshed'
decks.

As I said early on, it's very fortunate that the original boards on
the air motor broke off the block quite cleanly.  So, there aren't
that many divots in either the block or the boards.  And in my original
posting on this matter, I was hoping there was an easier way to remove
the hot melt glue that getting it hot again, then scraping off as much
as possible -- which would only serve to drive the glue further into
the wood -- or by sanding it off with a belt sander, which would only
serve to ruin the belts in a hurry.

As it's turned out, the freezing has been very effective, and though
I've had very little time to work on the motor over the past week
because of road calls and Internet business, it seems that the longer
the remaining boards stay in the deep freeze, the easier the glue comes
off.  That I don't quite understand.  Maybe it has something to do with
the moisture content in the wood?  Or the freezing of the moisture in
the wood?

I apologize for keeping this project running on so long, because there
are so many other things that I found out about this particular air
motor that I want to share with the forum.  Only thing is, you have to
see it to believe it...

Musically,
John A Tuttle
Player-Care.com
Brick, New Jersey, USA