Contrary to a statement made recently, gun-activated hot-melt glues
found in old rebuilds _are_ likely to be wax-based.  At one time there
was a relentless and years-long advertising campaign on television
for various hot-glue guns, most of which used wax-based bars of glue.
These guns are still being sold by the thousands in hobby shops and
large retail stores as well.  But even if another type of gun-activated
hot-melt glue is used, it causes problems, as illustrated in other
posts.

In my opinion, hot melt glue guns are a very poor choice for player
work.  I used one for non-player gluing and repeatedly burned myself on
the hot metal nozzle, and I burned everything I set it on as well such
as tool handles and table tops, plus the thing continually drizzled hot
glue.  The electric cord was always pulling the thing off the work
surface onto the floor where it left a small splat of glue.

As for the discussion on heating wood to cook off glue, all that will
do is thin the wax-based hot melt glue and drive it deeper into the
wood fiber.  For an experiment, heat candle wax to a watery state and
pour it on raw wood like the poplar many player actions were made of.
When it hardens, scrape it off and you will find some is left _in_ the
wood.

How do you get that out to assure a good gluing surface for the next
type of glue?  Cooking the wood also makes it brittle and decomposes
any surface protection such as shellac etc. that was applied by the
last rebuilder or by the factory.  Cooking or overheating the wood will
probably warp it as well.  It strikes me as an astoundingly bad idea.

At the risk of reactivating the silicone Jihadists on the list,  I'll
refrain from mentioning a more fitting glue to use for player work.

Tim Gautreaux