Alumiweld has been around for years and years, originally on the
carnival circuit and then the old car show circuit along with the old
tractors, etc.  I know one of the originators of the demonstrations
stands, from Waterford, Michigan.

I have used Alumiweld for years, and have had good results with it.
No flux is needed with the A-16 rods.  There are other versions out
there that require flux and other steps.  You have to clean the area
very well and use only a stainless steel wire brush.  Also, he
recommends that you make a stainless probe.  From a stainless fork cut
all but one tine off, or use a stainless TIG rod from the welding shop
to push the oxidation scum that forms on the surface of the puddle.
The propane torch provides a slightly reducing atmosphere for the
soldering.

Most people that don't have luck with it don't follow the directions.
Follow to the letter, as far as the cleaning and stainless part.
Regular wire brushes leave impurities on the aluminum or pot melt that
will cause failure.  Also you have to groove or notch the join on thick
parts and preheat the area, and make more than one pass to fill the
join.  You may need help with another person playing another torch over
the area.

Also you should be aware that the aluminum's change of state isn't
proceeded by any color change like other metals.  It will go from solid
to 'gone' in an eye blink!  I would recommend that you practice on
aluminum beer cans and scrap stuff first to get the properties of the
rod down.

You can also get the various types of pot metal and aluminum alloy rod
at Harbor Freight, stores catalog and web.  Most big-box stores carry
a version now and welding shops have a version.

  A-16 Products
  4975 Coshocton St.
  Waterford, MI 48327
  tel.: 1-248-682-8778

He sells two packages: 18 rods and 44 rods.  The rods are about 16" to
18" long and he will ship.  I have an old sheet so I don't have current
prices and shipping; used to be under $5.00.

Glen R. Perye Jr.

 [ Visit http://www.alumiweld.com/  -- Robbie