Dear Group,  I've looked in the MMD Archives and waited for someone
else to initiate any discussion concerning the fairly new "Gorilla
Glue."  It appears that I shall be the first to mention it in this
forum; please hold the tar and feathers a moment longer.  I'm not
suggesting it is an alternative to hide or fish glues, etc.  Just some
comments about the product itself and how others may find it as useful
as I have to glue things together you're sure you will never want to
come apart -- ever!

I first used this product about three years ago.  A friend (who is
a cabinet maker) suggested I try it instead of aliphatic resin (like
"Titebond") glue to repair a bass bridge that had split and come loose
from the soundboard.  I was hesitant at first.  But he assured me that
this glue wasn't going to loosen without the aid of dynamite and after
a brief demonstration on some scrap pieces I became a believer.  And
used it to make the repairs to the bridge.  Still holding firm.

Don't ever use this glue on anything you'll want to take apart later.
You'll come unglued before it will.  So don't even think about using it
to glue pneumatics back onto the stack.  (Although I'm not sure tape is
such a great idea either) So PLEASE don't use it for pneumatic work!

The big hardware chains usually stock the glue and I've even seen a
display at an auto parts house.  It's about twice as much as a bottle
of "Titebond," maybe a little more.

It sets/cures slightly faster but reaches full strength overnight.  It
is recommended that the pieces to be joined are wetted first before
application of the glue.  The moisture "activates" the chemical bonding
process; and it slowly starts forming a foam-like goo that will expand
and fill any voids between the pieces.  It's much easier to sand when
dried and doesn't tend to load up the paper like other glues.  It is
waterproof when dry.

However, there are some drawbacks.  It will ruin your clothes or any
finished wood so don't slather it all over something without protecting
any surrounding areas that you weren't planning to sand.  Don't make
any formal dinner plans for a day or two.  If you get it on your hands
it's going to stay there awhile.  Denatured alcohol will clean it off
yourself and your tools if you can get to it right away; but the longer
the glue dries the harder it is to remove from just about anything.

Comparatively; it's a lot harder to work with than yellow garden
variety wood glues but its ability to expand (foam) filling any voids
and its superior holding ability (and sandability) makes it worthwhile
in certain circumstances.  A little goes a long way so even though it's
more expensive it really isn't in the long run since you'll be using
less.

Again, please don't use this glue for cloth, gaskets, etc.  I'm sure
it's only a matter of time before the failed attempts of uncle whoever
to "patch up the olla' bellows" start turning up with vinyl stuck on
pneumatics like barnacles to a pier.  And you thought white glues were
hard to remove from player actions!  I have not encountered this
problem yet but I'm unfortunately experienced enough to know sooner
or later (shudder) I probably will.

Nevertheless, I'm convinced nothing is better for soundboard shimming,
bridge repairs, or casework you don't want coming apart ever again.
For those uses I highly recommend trying "Gorilla Glue."  Maybe others
with similar experience can comment as well.  I'm surprised no one has
mentioned it before.

Eric Shoemaker
Tacoma, Washington