What you are after here is a glossy barrier which will prevent the
agents of deterioration from reaching the metal.  If you don't need high
gloss then microcrystaline wax will do just as well, less expensive and
easier to re-do.

The important thing to realize is that no matter what barrier you apply
there will be something left inside which will cause deterioration to
continue- so be prepared to reverse anything done eventually.  Do
nothing that is unreversible and be ready to do it again.  Record what
you have done.

Another very important point is that deterioration is assisted by
environmental dimensions: temperature and humidity.  It is not so much
the level of each (you can find the optimum level for each material) but
the change that is the problem.  Change means constant expansion and
contraction.  You want to avoid this as it stresses out the object and
the barrier.  Barriers also are eroded by touch (acids produced by skin
and abrasion): keep handling to a minimum -- use cotton gloves and acid
free containers.  This goes for all barriers, even lacquer.

Prior to installing a barrier be sure to remove any oxidized metal, oil,
grease, dirt and dust.  Remember that you are locking up everything
together when the barrier is applied.  Be especially sure to remove any
polish, and if you use chemical cleaners be sure to neutralize them or
remove them.  This is particularly important as chemical cleaners can
go deep within the metal and keep working on it over time.

Once everything is very, very clean you need it to be very, very dry.
Heat gently and conduct work in a room with very low humidity.  Get a
dehumidifier going.  Drying is determined by the nature of the object.

Consider the aesthetics of the piece: even though you apply a barrier
the object will darken slowly over time.  If you want it to be dull,
start off shiny anyway as it will tone down later, but slowly.  For
objects for which a high shine is not required, use wax.

Another big problem is dust.  If this gets mixed up with the barrier it
will wick moisture right down to the metal.  Be very careful to work in
a dust free environment, and, by the way, with lacquer be very careful
to have good ventilation and protect your lungs.

Incralac (Acryloid B-44 with benzotriazole and UV stabilizer) is highly
recommended.  The benzotriazole acts against deterioration and is
important.  This is available from several places.

When applying be sure to position your object so it can not be touched
by anything.  The barrier must flow all around the object.  Any
interruption will let in moisture, etc.  Don't do just the front or
top, do it inside and out.

For screws I would recommend wax rather than lacquer.  Lacquer would
create unnecessary binding which may not be good for the softer
material receiving the screw.  When attaching the treated piece to
another object, apply a second barrier of wax to the back side between,
say, the metal and the wood.  This works also to prohibit any adhesion
and will help keep moisture from developing between the surfaces
undetected.

Conrad Bladey


Butcher's Bowling Alley Paste Wax; (wax mixture in turpentine and
petroleum naphtha)

Butcher Polish Co., 67 Foreft St., Marlborough, Mass. 01752;
Incralac (Acryloid B-44 with benzotriazole and UV stabilizer)

StanChem Co., 401 Berlin St., East Berlin, Conn. 06023; Minwax Paste
Finishing Wax (wax mixture in turpentine and petroleum naphtha)

Minwax Company, Inc., 16 Cherry St., Clifton, N.J. 07014, or Flora,
Ill. 62839; Orvus WA Paste (sodium lauryl sulfate)

Conservation Support Systems, P.O. Box 91746, Santa Barbara, Calif. 93190