Hi D.L. Bullock,


>> I now have one of those Dynavoice monsters again.  This time,
>> however, the pneumatic units are not screwed in to the metal plate.
>> I know yours had a plastic nut that held each one on.  These have
>> press-on clips.  Do you know a source for replacements or do you know
>> how to get them off without destroying them?  Getting them off is
>> impossible presently.


Working backwards through your post:

1) Removing the clamps:  Use a small sharp chisel to get under an edge
of the clamp.  Raise the edge to the point where you can get hold of it
with a needle-nose pliers.  Continue to lift the clamp on one "corner",
enough to get clearance to cut through the clamp at the thinnest point
with a diagonal pliers.  Carefully remove the clamp with your
needle-nose.  This will weaken the clamp, but not totally destroy it,
and it can be reused in conjunction with a 1/4" section of tubing.

2)  I was able to find the Tinnerman clamps, or "speed nuts", at my
local hardware store,  but only in 3/8" or 1/2".  The Dynavoice needs
a 7/16".  Surely some hardware supplier must have them at a hundred per
box.  Shouldn't be more than ten bucks a box, if you can find them

3)  The Tinnerman clamp is the standard fastener for the Dynavoice.
Some of my pneumatic units have nuts because I threaded the mounting
nipples to accept them -- they did not come that way.   The plastic of
the mounting nipple seems amenable to being threaded.  I used a 3/8"
coarse thread on mine.  While this worked, I believe I used too small
a die.  I would recommend that, if you thread them, you use a 7/16"
die so as to leave more plastic intact on the nipple.

I found that the Tinnerman clamps, although cut, can be reused, because
they are very stiff.  Reshape them if they have become distorted by the
removal process.  Also flatten the center section a bit, as necessary,
so it will grab onto the mounting nipple.  I have found that a used
clamp in conjunction with 1/4" section of tubing placed on the nipple
and rammed up hard against the clamp works quite satisfactorily.

If you are actually considering breaking down the unit and rebuilding
the pneumatics, reattach the pneumatics with the old clamps until you
are completely finished with the job and are happy with the response of
each unit.  It will be easier to remove them, which you may find that
you have to do several times, during the rebuilding process.

I found a really cool way of testing the pneumatics.  Place the
Dynavoice on an electronic keyboard and record the playing of a test
roll into Powertracks to obtain velocity data for each striker
pneumatics.  They will be pretty much all over the place.  Just remove
the really weak ones for another look; mighta missed a ripped pouch
fold, or some other problem.

Of course you will want to apply vacuum and test them individually
before inserting into the base plate to be sure they are working at
all.  Then the final test with the test roll will point out the very
weakest responders.  You may want use the velocity data to move the
stronger playing units into the bass section, too.

I'm already anticipating the next question: "How the hell do you get
those #@%$# plastic valve blocks apart?!?"

Good luck!

Tom Lear
San Francisco, Calif.