Ref. 040513 MMDigest, Painting the Leather of Fair Organ Figures

1. Oil Paints

I typically paint carvings with artist oils (tube oils).  Sometimes
I will make colors from powdered pigments.  Either way the color needs
to be mixed with a medium.  This typically is an equal part mixture of
heirloom varnish (non-yellowing), boiled linseed oil and turpentine.
As it turns out, linseed oil stays pliable for years and has the ability
to keep the paint from completely drying out.

A sign painter told me that by adding extra boiled linseed oil you can
extend the life of the paint.  Commercially available paints often have
dryers added so that they dry quickly and are convenient to work with.
This creates a quick drying and hard (brittle) paint which you do _not_
want.

2. Water Based Paints

I do not like to use water based paints on wood carvings in that the
water raises the grain and can often create other problems.  Yet latex
is a natural rubber product and stays pliable for years.  I do not have
empirical knowledge in that I do not use latex on wood.  Incidentally,
a latex balloon will biodegrade faster than a maple leaf.

Most of us have tried to restore old rubber parts.  Once it gets old
it is brittle, crumbly and generally a bear to work with.  Many organs
live outside, in trailers or in less than perfect conditions.  As such
I would expect the life of water based paints to be poor.

3. Dyes

I see no reason why the leather could not be dyed and paint mixed to
match for the adjoining areas.  The leather can then be periodically
treated with conditioner.

4. Glue, the real problem with leather

The glue you apply to the leather will shorten the life of the leather
faster than anything you put on it.  Many glues, most of them common
wood glues (yellow and white) are brittle.  If you have seen them ooze
out of a joint and harden, they can be rock hard.  They will take the
edge off of a chisel faster then you can blink.  Imagine leather
flexing continuously against this hard surface.  Poof!  No leather!

Hide glues are a better choice and can easily be removed for
restoration.  Technically silicone glues stay pliable but I would keep
them off of a carving.

I hope that this helps.

Bob Yorburg - Founder Academy of Classical Arts

By the way we are hosting a seminar on carousel horse carving June 5-9.
This is scheduled to immediately precede the COCA rally.  The seminar
will be held in New York and taught by Joe Leonard, the carver and
designer of the Euro-Disney carousel.  Future Seminars include the
painting of carvings with Pam Hesse.  For further info, you can email
me at amuscarv@aol.com or call 914-243-7890.