Hi All,  Interesting how many of you are marking motors [pneumatics]
with pen and pencil prior to removal.  I have always tried to steer
clear of making marks that can remain visible after a restoration.
Internal numbering is okay as its out of sight.

I tend to favour the use of a scalpel knife and cut alongside the
stack motors so as to leave a cut mark in the motor rail (stack);
if the motors are to be bedded on paper or thin leather it's possible
to leave enough of the knife marks showing to act as a guide.

If you have the time and the inclination, the best solution is to
remove the hinged half of the motor first, leaving the glued half on
the motor rail (stack).  Then, using a 1/16" diam. drill bit, drill
through the full thickness of the motor and a little way into the rail.

Do this in two positions, one at the front of the motor and one near
the hinge if possible; the depth into the rail will depend on its
thickness and the position of internal components in relation to where
you intend to drill.  Then unglue the motor halves from the rail and
re-unite them with their counterparts ready for recovering.

At this point you take a packet of tooth picks and cut from each end
the point and part of the shank, the total length equal to the
thickness of the motor board plus the depth you drilled into the rail.
Glue the points into the rail (blunt end in, point projecting out) and
get set to re-attach the pneumatics.  The tooth pick points act as
locating dowels, and the further apart the two dowels are, the more
stable and accurate the realignment.

Okay, so it's a lot of fuss and fiddle, so it's not original, so what!
It works a treat!  Try it and see for your-selves.  You can still bed
on paper or thin leather with this method and use any glue you like.

Sincerely,
Paul Camps