Greetings to all.  I could not resist adding to the recent thread on
"sticky things."

Personally, I am a firm believer in hot glue.  As has been stated many
times in this Digest, it is not hard to use; after a bit of practice it
will be your glue of choice.

I would like to offer comments from my experience using burnt shellac.
First, let me say, I avoided this for many years because it seemed like
it was complicated -- just like folks avoiding hot glue.

In original installations, burnt shellac can be found holding top valve
seats in place on such systems as Ampico and Wurlitzer, and I am sure
many others.  It was generally used when metal or Bakelite and wood
parts needed to be stuck together.

Most references today urge the use of PVC glue for this job.  I won't
say it does not work, but I will go on record stating the original way
with burnt shellac is faster and more positive.

When you apply PVC around the top of a metal valve plate to seal it to
the wood valve block, you first must be concerned that it does not run
into the valve cavity because it is very thin.  Next, after carefully
running a bead of PVC around the top valve seat, you set it aside to
dry.

When inspecting your work, which is made difficult because the PVC
dries clear, you will find that there is a crack remaining open all
around the valve seat.  This PVC seems to shrink as it dries!  You now
must apply another layer of PVC to try to stop up the leaks.  In some
instances this routine must be done as many as four times, before you
get the required seal!

When using burnt shellac, life is simple!  Firstly, I did not burn my
shellac.  Oh!  I did experiment with some that way, but found that
getting each batch "burned" off to the right consistency was tricky.
I simply took a small jam jar and filled it to the top with shellac
flakes.  Then I poured in just enough alcohol to come up a quarter of
the way on the side of the jar.  Put on the top and shake.  Let it sit
for a day, with the occasional shake, to fully dissolve.

What you want is a consistency of thick molasses.  Now that you have
the base mixture, it is a simple matter to add more flake or more liquid
to get exactly what you want!  What you don't use will keep in a
tightly sealed jar.  It is always handy to have some ready to be used.

I used a standard "acid" brush as sold by the PPCo. for hot glue, to do
my application.  The "burnt shellac" was a pleasure to work with.  It
just flowed exactly where you wanted it.  It set up as fast or faster
than PVC glue, and it did not recede and leave open cracks to leak,
which means that when you went back to inspect your job, it all passed
the first time and no re-application was required.  It looked just like
the original.

"Burnt shellac" works best and properly where no other "sticky stuff"
will substitute.  There are other ideal places besides top and/or
bottom valve faces: it is especially good for those loose nipples
stuck into wood -- you know, the ones that are most often found with gobs
of silicone caulking trying to stop up the leaks.  It is wonderful to
keep a nut from turning loose on a bolt, with just a tiny little dab.

Anything that involves metal needing to be fastened to wood, that has
to be shrink-proof and leak-proof, just begs for "Burnt Shellac."  Thin
it down and coat wood valve blocks with it.  Adjust the thickness as
required to do the job at hand. Just like changing the thickness of hot
glue to suite the job at hand.

It is very inexpensive.  It is very fast.  It is easy to use.  It works
perfectly.  Most important: it is an original method!  Another plus is
you can clean it off easily.  When dry it will chip off and it can
always be dissolved with alcohol.

Once again, if your shop has hot glue and burnt shellac, you are well
on your way to replicating an original job which first hand knowledge
proves has lasted for seventy-five or more years!

Sharing the hobby

Ken Vinen, Stratford, Ontario, Canada