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Heating Hide Glue
By Bruce Clark

I agree fully with Terry Smythe in the use of a pencil point
propane flame for removal of old pneumatic cloth.  I have used
this method since the 1950's.

Steam is risky, in that it may warp or discolor the finish on
painted pneumatic boards.

I also agree with Bob Yorburg, that hot glue can be over-cooked,
over-heated and cooked too long, making the bonding properties
questionable, or even useless.  If one is careful the glue can be
reheated a few times.  Fresh small batches of glue are the best.

I have a fancy thermostatically controlled glue pot, but no longer
use it.  I find that the water surrounding the glue pot will often
boil dry.  In addition I find the glue keeps getting thicker as the
water evaporates from it, even if covered.

I prefer heating the glue in a small glass jar with a larger amount
of water surrounding it.  The jar must sit on a rack, such as a rack
found in the bottom of most pressure cookers.  The cooker is covered
which will allow water vapor to circulate around the sides of the glass
container _and over the top of the glue surface_ and prevent a great
deal of evaporation of water from the glue.  The covered cooker is not
allowed to boil once the glue is hot, but kept at a very low simmer
and covered until the glue is needed.

Bruce Clark


(Message sent Sat 22 Mar 2003, 15:09:24 GMT, from time zone GMT-0800.)

Key Words in Subject:  Glue, Heating, Hide

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