This is a response to Shahar Eliyahu's inquiry about the flogging step
in the graining process. Perhaps it may be of interest to those who
have an interest in this art form...
Hi, Shahar,
I'm happy to learn you are interested in graining. It's fun, and once
you get started you see many possibilities.
Flogging is holding a brush almost parallel to the surface and
slapping the flat side into the glaze as you slowly move it in the
direction of the brush handle, up or down. Most faux woods are
flogged, but some, such as most burls, are not.
On big work, a long bristle (usually horsehair) brush made for that
purpose is commonly used. For music box work, I'd use a chip brush or
small paint brush. I would also grain with a chip brush in poor
condition (bristles splayed, etc.)..
The approach to graining a music box is different than graining a
larger work, but since it is viewed up close, it's important to make
it realistic. So don't short cut the steps. That Nicole Freres box
you have probably was grained in at least two steps.
The lid is a subject by itself. I have mostly seen inlay or decals
on old box lids. Painted and leafed decorations would be very
attractive in my opinion, and may be your only practical choice if the
original decoration is beyond saving and if you do not wish to learn
marquetry. I have done small table tops that finished very
realistically as many wood pieces put into a wood background. All
faux, of course.
Many music boxes had edge work such as ebony or a ruby black. In
addition a thin band of this same color set in from the edgework a
short distance looks very good.
I think staying as close as possible to the original graining pattern
and embellishments is the most professional way to restore the box.
This may hold the value of the box the best.
Bill Maier (Salt Lake City and Scottsdale AZ)
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