I am glad to report that I now have the previously mentioned blower
all hooked up and tested this evening.  I first had to upgrade the main
service panel, then run the 8-gage Romex wire to the safety switch,
then to the motor starter box, and from there I used 3/4" BX cable with
8-gage wire.

As I didn't have the starter solenoid connected to a switch, I held the
contact bar in with a piece of wood and used the cut-off switch.  It
was pretty cool -- not as much noise as I was led to think it would
make; more of a low rumble and wind noise than the loud high pitch
scream I anticipated.

Anyway, I went to wire up the starter solenoid and nothing happened
when powered up.  As I see it, I either was trying to get the coil
to run off 110 when it needs 220 volts (?), or the wrong lugs were
connected.  I got absolutely nothing with 110 volts connected to C1
and C2.

There is no wiring diagram or anything in the box, on the electro-
magnet itself there are two wires coming out of the coil going behind
the back board, above that are two lugs marked C1 and C2.  Down below
the contact bar is a lug marked C3 but it appears to only make a
contact when the bar is activated.  In other words, I think C1 and
C2 are the business ends, and C3 must have gone to the rectifier or
something.  It is a Square D Class 8502, 50 AMP 220 v "Automatic
Starter".

I had thought it's function was the solenoid ran off 110 volts to the
console, and the switch there turned the solenoid on which closed the
contacts for the 220 to the motor.  If that's not the case then it
seems odd to have 220 volts going to the console to the little toggle
switch that's there!

From other organ (the Kilgen) which I recently removed, I also took the
starter and rectifier, and the console has an industrial push button
switch for the blower.  It is a "momentary on" with one button and
"off" with pressing the other button.  I can't use the starter from
that one since it would never be allowed by code now -- it has no box
or cover, just completely open with the contacts exposed.  So I
installed the one from the Moller organ which has an enclosed box with
cover.  I have the console for that organ, and the blower switch on it
is a ordinary toggle-type on/off  switch.

Am I missing some relay or something on the Kilgen?  The solenoid, as I
gather, needs continuous power to hold the 220 v motor contacts closed,
so how would a momentary on/off type switch work on such a setup?  The
Kilgen had a Cutler-Hammer motor starter and a Cutler-Hammer switch
under the console.

Randy

 [ You said that it's a 2 HP single-phase motor.  Nearby that
 [ description on the motor nameplate should be given the design
 [ (mains) voltage and the operating current.  The starting method is
 [ entirely self-contained within a repulsion-induction motor, therefore
 [ an expensive motor starter unit shouldn't be needed.  An ordinary
 [ contactor (relay) for a 2 HP single-phase refrigeration compressor
 [ will work fine, and it is usually fitted with a coil for 24 VAC
 [ controlled by a simple toggle switch.  Ask at a friendly air
 [ conditioning shop, where you can also get a nice quick-disconnect
 [ fuse block.  (Maybe they'll take in trade that huge 50 A automatic
 [ motor starter!  ;)
 [
 [ Or install the Kilgen contactor in a covered metal box; that will
 [ satisfy the safety code.   -- Robbie