Hello all,  I would like to pass on my recent experiences with brittle
paper in old rolls.

I have been repairing such rolls using a special "Archival" tape,
Filmplast-P, as recommended by John Phillips and others (MMD) and
found it to be ideally suited to the task with many advantages over
"magic tape" and other domestic adhesive tapes.

This tape is strong but extremely thin (1.5 thousandths vs. 2.5 thou
for other tapes), the adhesion increases after a few minutes thus
allowing some corrections, and it is slightly alkaline to counter the
acidity in old paper.  It is not particularly elastic but can be
stretched slightly to correct paper curl or puckering.

The thinness is very desirable because it minimises the build-up when
extensive repairs are needed.  Supposedly, it can be removed later if
desired (reversibility) and will not damage the paper excessively.
The main disadvantages are the cost, availability, and the fact that
it only comes in 2-cm wide rolls.

I have just re-repaired a roll previously mended by someone else
using "magic tape" and I wished that person had known about Filmoplast!
I had to cut the edges in places to relieve the puckering because there
was no way to safely remove the other tape.

Filmoplast-P is made in Germany but is available worldwide through
book-binder and archivists suppliers .   I think 3-M distributes it in
the US and you can find out more about it by searching on the Internet.
This address should provide suppliers in the US:

  Contact: Dave Dannhauser
  E-Mail: films@earthlink.net
  Web Address: http://www.neschen.com

Rob DeLand (in MMDigest 1996.04.17.05) mentioned a catalog he got
from University Products, and maybe he can add more to this.  MMD has
a number of other references.

A UK source is:

  PAPERSAFE 195 High Street, Alsagers Bank, Stoke on Trent.  ST7 8BA.
  UK Phone 01782 723329.  Fax 01782 721195
  E-mail: books@rdfb.demon.co.uk

Although the initial cost is high, the cost per roll is only a few
cents and is well worth it if you have a number of valuable rolls
needing repairs.  It is one of the few adhesive tapes acceptable for
archival use.

I use this adhesive with my roll repair table by laying out a strip
about 15 to 20 cm long on a smooth surface and slicing it into strips
of desired width with a scalpel.  These strips must be used quickly or
discarded after a few minutes as the adhesive begins to set harder.

A little practice is needed in handling cut strips as they will tangle
easily -- I find about 5 or 6 cm is about maximum for each application
and short pieces will help to reduce puckering.  I have used this tape
to repair torn bridges successfully.  I would love to find a source of
adhesive rolls of many different widths but I am sure the cost would be
prohibitive.  I might try cutting the strips whist still on the backing
tape but then keeping the tape from slipping could be a problem.

Sometime back, there was a discussion on MMD of ways to protect old
brittle rolls when playing.  I would like to re-enforce a suggestion
I made to stop the roll at the end of play, carefully draw out the left
flange about 5 mm (1/4") and rewind slowly if possible.

I have modified my Duo-Art so that the tempo lever partially controls
the rewind speed by adjusting the position of the slide valve which
by-passes the regulator on rewind.  This extra gap allows the paper
to wander freely to the left (usually the worst side) on rewind and
although the right side is still fixed, it helps a little here too.

Obviously, the left flange must be fitted with enough friction to stay
in place under spring pressure from the spool chucks.  After rewind, it
is important to tap the paper very firmly against the right flange to
close the left flange and then gently tightening the paper if too
loose.  As previously mentioned also, it is vital that the roll
tracking during playing is as good as it can be or you will risking
lots more unnecessary roll damage.

Cheers and happy playing of your cherished rolls.

Darrell Clarke,
Australia