Bruce Miller wrote in Digest 971114:

> I recently purchased a Tangley Calliope that I plan to start right
> in on restoring. ... I would greatly appreciate all help, leads,
> or assistance that any of you may be able to give me.

Dear Bruce,  Congratulations on your purchase.  I rebuilt a Tangley
CA-43 about 7 or 8 years ago.  They are a lot of fun.  It currently
belongs to a local chapter of a California Lion's Club organization,
who hired me to do the work.

It was an absolute wreck when I brought it into my shop.  It had not
only been badly damage by idiots trying to make repairs who didn't have
the slightest idea what they were doing, but it had also experienced
two floods.  Once the restoration was complete, however, it was
absolutely beautiful.

For several years thereafter, some friends and I were able to borrow it
every Christmas eve and pull it around town playing Christmas Carols.
It was a real blast, and the town-folk loved it.  They would run out
ahead of us when they heard us approaching to bring us Christmas
cookies.  :-)

Anyway, I would suggest starting by obtaining a copy of the blueprint
drawings of the instrument.  I'm not sure who has these today (perhaps
someone can suggest), but at one time they were available at Player
Piano Company, and previous to that Vestal Press had them.  At any
rate, the plans will help you fill in many of the missing pieces.  It
was a huge help for me since my project was also missing several parts.

From the plans you should have no problem duplicating the missing sheet
metal case parts.  The sheet metal on my project was so badly rusted,
dented and banged up, I chose to just replace all of it (actually with
slightly heavier stock, which improved it from the original).

I removed all the remaining sheet metal parts and brought them to a
metal shop along with the drawn plans.  They were able to duplicate
both the present and missing parts (including the missing key cover),
with no problem at all.  The only original case part I reused was the
pipe deck, which is made of much heavier gage steel.

Replacing the keys is going to be a bigger challenge.  A very skilled
craftsman could duplicate them, but it will require a lot of patient
work.  The easiest method will probably be to simply locate someone
with a key frame with keys from an un-salvageable Tangley somewhere out
there, (thus perhaps some MMDers could help).  From there just recover
the tops, clean the wood,  and replace the bushings, and you're on your
way.

Otherwise there are a couple of other options.  First, try contacting
Dave Miner in Donnellson, IA.  Phone: 319-837-6486, Fax: 319-837-6080.
His company, Miner Mfg. Co., makes reproductions of the original
Tangley.  There are some slight modifications between the model he is
making and the original (I'm not exactly sure to what extent), but he
may be able to help you.  I know that he has had some vintage calliopes
and parts for sale from time to time.

The next option would be to try and borrow a key frame and keys from
someone who might have a disassembled and unrestored unit around.
(again, perhaps some MMDers could help).  From there you could try to
carefully duplicate it yourself (believe me, as a long-time experienced
piano technician, this won't be easy), or you could send a borrowed
frame and keys to a duplicating service (advisable) to have a new set
made.

One of the more noteworthy U.S. duplicating services would include
PianoTech supply company in Ferndale, Michigan, Phone: 810-545-1599.
They are expensive and have a waiting list, but they will get the job
done for you.

The blower problem is actually easy.  First, like the key frame
problem, check around and see if anyone has an original.  Otherwise, an
excellent substitute is to purchase a high-performance engine blower,
the type that is mounted on the top of racing engines.  In principal,
they work exactly the same way as the old Tangley blower.  If you check
around with some of your local racing and pro-shop enthusiasts, you
could probably find an old clean used or rebuilt unit for a few hundred
dollars.

The calliope that I rebuilt had an old Chevrolet performance blower on
it that was built sometime in the early 1950s.  It worked absolutely
perfectly, and even looks somewhat like the original.  You will have to
have a welding/machine shop make a large nippled elbow flange to mount
on the bottom for your output connection.  No big deal.

I would also suggest designing a neat and conservative looking
air filter for the input side.  I also had to make a new heavy mounting
frame for the whole engine and blower assembly.  I then added a nice
manual clutch system (that simply tightened and loosened the drive
belt), to allow easy starting of the engine.  Then I added a larger
fuel tank, located a ways away from the engine for safety, since the
system does generate a substantial amount of heat.

Finally, I enclosed the entire engine/blower in a well sound insulated
(but air ventilated) box.  It worked very nicely with a minimal amount
of noise to distract from the calliope.  I also added a automotive-type
exhaust system, which quieted the engine substantially.

The case handles I know are readily available.  I've seen them in
catalogues and even in a few hardware stores.  I think there is even a
list of suppliers for these kinds of items when you get the drawings I
mentioned earlier.  Dave Miner may even have some available.

One thing I have noticed a lot is that almost always this type of
hardware comes with ugly cadmium plating, or with some other equally
distasteful finish.  You may have to send them off for replating.
Chances are you will have to do a lot of plating and/or replating
throughout the project anyway, however, so find a good local plater
now.

I hope this information proves helpful to you.  I promise you will
have lots of fun with it when you're done!  Good Luck!  Do careful slow
work, be patient, and don't be discouraged if you have to do something
over again several times to get it right.  Finally, don't forget to
install new decals when your done, one of the most important finishing
touches to a professional looking restoration!

Rob Goodale, RPT