I've often thought that the real cause of damage to many rolls is the
tracking system which moves the top spool around to line it up with the
takeup spool.  Watching the roll buckle or even tear as the spool moves
is alarming.  Over-width roll and takeup spools permit slopping about and
increase damage as well as guaranteeing bad tracking: an exact fit is
much better.

Some trackers move either the tracker bar or both spools -- Aeolian's
early hand-operated system moves both spools together, and their later
Standard-type 4-hole balanced air system moves the tracker bar.  In both
cases, the fixed alignment of top and bottom spools means there's no
buckling of the roll during play.  Some of these instruments have an
adjustable-width takeup spool which can be set for each roll, and this
pretty well eliminates mistracking.

I think this setup works because decent roll paper has a fairly straight
grain so will not try wandering forcibly, and can be contained without
damage by the sides of the takeup spool (until the paper goes brittle,
of course).  It is interesting that most badly-torn rolls will play with
little or no problem on a fixed-alignment system with adjustable-width
takeup spool.  This reinforces my impression that a faulty top-spool
moving tracker system was the cause of the damage.

Some rolls appear to be self-destructing, having a grain pattern that
is not in line with the stresses caused by playing the roll.  They will
swerve with some force as the grain lines up along the direction of
stress.  These rolls will shred no matter what, even when the paper is
new and strong, and are just faulty.  If the roll is damaged just at the
end, then perhaps it has been stuck on the spool at an angle, forcing it
off line.  Cut it off the spool and re-fix with a small piece of tape in
the centre, like most modern rolls.

If you have a roll that is torn, please remember ALWAYS use archival
repair tape (such as Filmoplast P, easily available from specialist
suppliers).  It is far better than Scotch 'Magic' tape, which although
a good solution in the 1960s has been bettered since.  Never use old-
fashioned cellophane tape under any circumstances, unless you want to
junk the roll in a year or two's time.  Archival tape is made of thin
strong paper and will flex with the roll, is removable, and will not rot
the roll.  It looks a lot better as well.

Having talked to a paper conservator, I was told that whatever you use,
apply tape in small pieces -- no more than an inch long.  It is better to
tear it with wavy inner edges and rounded corners, which reduces stress
lines which can warp the roll.  Always repair on the front of the roll.

How about retubing reproducing pianos so they stop at the end of the
roll, so they can be watched as they rewind?  I like the idea of using
the tempo control in reverse to stop when things go wrong!

Julian Dyer

 [ Foot-pumped pianos are easily controlled...!  ;)  -- Robbie