Terry Smythe was worried that the Ampico pump he is rebuilding will give
problems because the pump crankpins are rusted and rough from water or
humidity.  I think they will be all right, Terry.  Just turn a little
crocus cloth around them, or knock off the  rust with a rotary wire brush
and then polish them up as best you can with some red compound on a
buffing wheel.  You will still have rust pits in them, but all that's
going to do is hold the grease better.  My concern would be with the glue
joints and condition of the plywood and the manifold.

Be sure and replace the bearings.  These press out one direction from the
plate.  If you don't have a bearing press, any machine shop can do it for
you.  Have your replacement bearings in hand when you go (same price).
The main bearings are very common alternator bearings and use a number
like 6203 LB.  The spider bearings are called "articulated" and are 6200
ALB.  These numbers will be able to be crossed into any other brand on
the market.

I suggest buying the replacement connecting rods from Bob Streicher in
New York.  His phone number is 717-559-7403.  They are beautifully made.
You will still have to but the bushings in, but then, you would have to
do that, anyway.  Old rods are sometimes ovaled out a little, which can
cause them to be a bit noisier than you'd want.  Save the wedges from
the old rods, and measure accurately the distance between centers.  There
were two different rod lengths.  Either will work, but I'd get the right
length.

I actually have a video that shows how to work on both the Ampico A and
(I think) B pumps, too.  At least, I remember it has that interim strange
Ampico pump in it, just before the full-blown model B design.  (I'll have
to look at it again, sometime).  For anybody who wants to learn about how
to make every Ampico pump a success, and no more failures, at all, ever
again, then this is something they may want to have.  It has all the
tricks (for what it's worth).

Craig Brougher