Replacing Lead Tubing
By Dave Saul
This is a response to Michael Amoroso's questions about lead tracker bar tubing in a 1926 Ampico grand piano.
Even though lead tubing in such installations often appears to be intact, it tends to deteriorate from the inside. It cannot be trusted to last for an extended length of time. It can even appear outwardly to be in perfect condition, and still have hidden impairments.
Moreover, lead is toxic, as are the residues that collect inside the tubes. These residues can pose a toxic hazard to a technician using a suction tube to check for airtight pouches, obstructed bleeds and the like.
The procedure best followed by a rebuilder is to remove all of the lead tubing, and replace it with regular tracker bar tubing. To the best of my knowledge, most restorers tend to follow that approach. Thin-wall neoprene tubing of the kind sold by Player Piano Co. (if it is still available) can be fitted into the available space and make a neat retubing job.
The brownish cement used for a sealant will need to be removed. It can be softened by heat, making the removal much easier. The parts with tubing attached need to be removed from the drawer before heat is applied. Cut the lead tubing with a pair of metal cutting snips about 3 inches away from the cemented nipples. This leaves a stub that can be grasped with pliers and carefully twisted to remove each individual piece from its nipple.
Take care, when removing the cement, not to damage the tracker bar nipples. For a heat source, I use an electric heat gun purchased from Sears Roebuck. It's safer than an open flame, although some people have reported using propane torches for this purpose.
Be sure to work in a well-ventilated place to avoid toxic fumes, and apply the heat sparingly, just enough to get the desired job done. New tracker bar tubing will make a better and safer job, and also remove several extra pounds of weight from the drawer.
Dave Saul
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(Message sent Mon 3 Mar 1997, 01:27:58 GMT, from time zone GMT-0600.) |
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