G'day all.

   I have read with much interest, the postings about the many problems
and risks associated with very old electrical equipment.  Aside from
player pianos, I have a modest collection of early light and electrical
fittings and, as an engineer, I would like to add some of my thoughts
to this thread.  I  believe strongly in the preservation of originality
where possible, but safety must always come first, particularly where
other members of the public may be involved.  I have had precisely the
same problems with old switches, whether or not used in electric
players.  Their simple design is normally more rugged than most modern
replacements and can usually be repaired, the difficulty being to find
someone who is qualified and willing to do it (not a problem for me!).
Often the repair is simply a matter of adjustment, it being vital that
the correct contact pressure be maintained to prevent arcing and
heating.  Broken or weak springs are a common problem and it is not
usually difficult to make a replacement.  I have a troublesome switch
on my Stroud which fails to shut off occasionally, in this case due to
wear and maybe a weak spring.  The solution might be to reshape or
remake the small brass "bicone" on the pull rod.  Most of the
components in such switches were pressed out of brass or turned, making
replacement or repair practical.  Switch insulation is critical and is
typically mica, Bakelite, fibre or ceramic and where cracked or broken,
can often be repaired with epoxy, if it isn't load bearing.  Where
insulation replacement is necessary, expert advice might be needed and
could mean total replacement.

   As a last resort, modern replacements like microswitches might be
fitted, and with a bit of ingenuity, they can hidden and connected in
such a way as to leave the original parts in place.  Old rubber and
cotton insulated wiring is often unserviceable and can be replaced with
modern reproduction equivalents.  Lighting specialist stores or Antique
Electronic Supply Co in Phoenix AZ can generally supply suitable power
cords and the like.  Old electric motors should always be checked for
condition, particularly shorted turns and ground leakage (specialist
job).  I am concerned about the safety of black neoprene tubing and
would like to test the local (Australian) product.  I do not recommend
using knuckles or any other body part to test the tracker bar etc.  Use
a neon test screwdriver (cheap), which is much safer and more
reliable.  I sincerely hope we don't read any more obituries (including
for valuable instruments!) in this digest due to restoration
misfortunes.

Cheers,
Darrell