A month or more ago, Larry Broadmoore wrote of the convenience and
quality of fish glue in rebuilding players, and he very kindly sent me
some to try.  I didn't initially like the idea because the fish glue I
have had anything to do with is too water soluble and softens in damp
environments over the years.

Now I have to make an exception.  He is right about the lower grade of
fish glue being a strong, high quality product.  It is the more refined
versions of fish glue that you don't want to use, since it is used in
certain photographic processes and is designed to immediately wash away
after being totally dry, with a little rinse.

The company making this product also sells it to LePages, so what I
bought from them in a very unhandy 1-gallon paint can can also be
purchased in much nicer Lepages bottles.

One thing you'll like about this particular formulation is how nicely it
sticks felt-- even the thick, fluffy kind-- down to something, like
dampers, perhaps? I haven't done any pneumatics, however, because I like
the hard, brittle hot hide glue, which greatly stabilizes the hinge end,
and all fish glue retains about 10% of its original moisture forever.  It
gets hard, but not nearly as hard as hot hide glue.

So my decision to use it is qualified as to what I will use it for.  I
can't recommend it for everything you would normally use hot hide glue
on.  But there is no glue that you can recommend for everything.  It is
strong, highly tacky immediately, you can thin it-- works good, dries
slow, but tacks quick, so you can't just pull off what you have just
glued down very easily, if at all.  And for gluing pouches, it has no
equal.

Craig Brougher